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Focusing on subjects ​

Achieving sharp focus is a critical aspect of photography, ensuring that the subject stands out clearly in an image. This guide covers how to focus with SLRs, TLRs, and rangefinders, as well as how to use zone focusing for quick, pre-set focusing in fast-paced shooting situations.

Manual focus vs autofocus ​

Film cameras use a variety of focusing methods, from fully manual to automated systems. While some modern film cameras include autofocus, most rely on manual focus, and many point-and-shoot cameras use either autofocus or fixed-focus lenses.

  • Manual focus gives full control over sharpness and is easier than it might seem, especially with the built-in focusing aids found in many cameras.
  • Autofocus is quicker but can sometimes struggle in low light or with low-contrast subjects. It is more common in later SLR or point-and-shoot cameras.
  • Fixed-focus lenses (often found in disposable and some basic point-and-shoot cameras) are designed to keep everything in focus beyond a certain distance, removing the need to adjust focus at all. These generally offer inferior image quality as a tradeoff.

Learning to focus manually is a valuable skill. With the techniques covered in the following sections, achieving sharp focus will become second nature.

Scroll to the relevant section to learn how to focus effectively with your specific setup.

Manual focusing SLR ​

Most manual focus SLR cameras use a rotating lens barrel to adjust focus. Turning the focus ring moves the lens elements, changing the focal plane to bring subjects into sharpness.

SLR cameras have built-in focusing screens, which assist with manual focusing by providing visual aids in the viewfinder. These screens typically include:

  • Split-image rangefinders – A central circle in the viewfinder that splits the image in two halves. When aligned, the subject is in focus.
  • Microprism rings – A textured area that appears blurry when out of focus and sharp when correctly focused.
  • Matte focusing screens – A fine-textured surface that helps with focus, especially in low light.

These aids make it easier to achieve sharp focus, especially in low-light conditions where manual focusing can be challenging.

Manual focusing TLR ​

Twin-lens reflex (TLR) cameras, like the Rolleiflex or Yashica models, use a side-mounted focusing dial to move the lens assembly back and forth. Unlike SLRs, TLR cameras don't use a prism. Instead, they have a waist-level focusing screen that displays the image from the viewing lens.

TLRs offer a larger, exposed focusing screen, making it easier to manually focus, especially when composing from a lower angle. Some models also include a flip-out magnifying glass, which helps achieve precise focus—particularly useful for portrait or macro photography, where fine adjustments are essential.

Manual focusing rangefinder ​

Rangefinder cameras, such as the Leica M series, use a coincidence rangefinder system to achieve focus. Instead of looking through the lens, the photographer views a secondary image overlay through the viewfinder.

The rangefinder system uses parallax-based depth perception, similar to how human eyes judge distances. A small mirror or prism shifts the secondary image as the focus ring is adjusted. When the two images align perfectly, the subject is in focus.

Focusing with a rangefinder is most effective when the subject has clear edges or contrast, as the system relies on visible alignment. Many rangefinder cameras feature bright, high-contrast viewfinder patches to aid focusing. Some models offer adjustable magnification to further enhance accuracy.

Autofocus SLRs ​

While most classic SLRs rely on manual focusing, some later models feature autofocus systems with varying levels of sophistication. Autofocus SLRs, such as those from the Canon EOS series, use electronic sensors and motor-driven lenses to adjust focus automatically.

Analogue autofocus systems generally fall into three categories:

  • Single-shot autofocus (AF-S) – Focuses once when the shutter button is half-pressed and remains locked until the shot is taken.
  • Continuous autofocus (AF-C) – Continuously adjusts focus while the shutter button is half-pressed, useful for tracking moving subjects.
  • Hybrid or manual override systems – Some cameras allow switching between autofocus and manual focus or provide fine-tuning after autofocus is locked.

Half-pressing the shutter button activates most autofocus systems, locking focus on the subject. This is often indicated by a confirmation light or beep. More advanced cameras may include multiple focus points, allowing subject selection within the frame. If autofocus locks onto the wrong area, recomposing the shot or using manual override (if available) can help refine focus. While autofocus in film cameras is generally slower than in digital models, understanding your specific system ensures more consistent and accurate results.

Zone focusing ​

Zone focusing is a technique that relies on depth of field rather than precise focusing adjustments. Most manual focus lenses include focus distance markings and depth of field indicators on the barrel. These markings allow photographers to determine which distances will remain in focus at a given aperture.

Using zone focusing for quick shots

  1. Set the aperture to a smaller value (e.g., f/8 or f/11) to increase depth of field.
  2. Adjust the focus ring so that the desired subject distance falls within the in-focus range.
  3. Use this pre-set focus to capture images quickly without needing to adjust focus for each shot.

This technique is particularly useful for street photography, where speed and spontaneity are crucial. By pre-focusing the lens, photographers can take candid shots without raising the camera to their eye.